A Comprehensive History of Hong Kong's Star Ferry

You’ve got an important business meeting. The brutal Hong Kong summer sun beats down relentlessly on your back as you try to calculate the fastest way to get from Kowloon to Central. You’re sweating through your suit as you make your way to Kowloon’s bustling shoreline. Across the shimmering waters, you see the rolling green mountains of Hong Kong Island. It really doesn’t look that far off, and you’re certain you’ll make that meeting.

The only catch is that it’s the 1800s, the Star Ferry doesn’t exist yet and neither does the Cross Harbour Tunnel, or the MTR. Your only option is to take a rickety little wallah wallah (motorized boat) across the water to Hong Kong Island which has a few notable drawbacks:

7 Ways to Die on an 1800s Wallah Wallah

1. You could die because of how unsafe and notoriously unmaintained the boats are.
2. You could die because of the ridiculous number of large boats traversing the harbor that your little wallah wallah will have to skillfully dodge.
3. You could die because of hazardous water conditions. Victoria Harbour is known to have a temperament matching the queen it’s named after!
4. You could die because of overcrowding. Even wallah wallah operators need to make a living!
5. You could die because there is absolutely zero safety equipment on board.
6. You could die because the operators were often not seasoned veterans or skilled.
7. You could die because the boats were super unstable, and there were definitely more sharks in Hong Kong’s waters back in the 1800s (okay, this one is a bit far-fetched. But still!).

Despite the risks, this was what life was like for the average citizen in the 1800s who wanted to make the journey from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island and back. That is, until a brilliant businessman mercifully provided a reliable alternative.

The roots of the Star Ferry trace back to 1880, when Dorabjee Naorojee Mithaiwala, a Parsi cook, established a ferry service, known as the Kowloon Ferry Company, to help passengers across Victoria Harbour using his steamboat, the Morning Star.

His service revolutionized cross-harbor transportation by providing a regular schedule that allowed commuters to traverse the harbor efficiently—a 40-minute to 1-hour journey that became essential for connecting the then-sparsely populated Kowloon with Hong Kong Island.

Prior to this, unreliable and dangerous (as established earlier) wallah wallahs were the only way to cross from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island.

Parsi Heritage

Mithaiwala, who was essentially the “Godfather” of the Star Ferry, was born in India to a Parsi family. The Parsis are descendants of Zoroastrians who migrated from Persia to India between the 8th and 10th centuries to escape religious persecution. They initially migrated to Gujarat, with many of them later moving to Bombay where they became prominent merchants by working with the East India Company. Their skill as merchants meant that Parsis played a crucial role in trade across Asia, including in regions like China.

Another famous Parsi that you may know is Freddie Mercury (Farrokh Bulsara), lead singer of the band, Queen.

Mithaiwala’s Journey to Hong Kong

In 1852, at the age of around 20, Mithaiwala arrived in Hong Kong from Bombay (Mumbai) as a stowaway on a ship bound for China. The Portuguese captain discovered him, but was kind enough to allow him to stay on board as the ship’s cook. This opportunity marked the beginning of his journey in a new land.

Upon disembarking in Hong Kong, Mithaiwala made good use of his cooking skills as he initially worked as a household cook. However, he soon recognized the potential for business in Hong Kong, where the rapid pace of development quickly created market gaps that he was keen to fill. His first post-cook venture was to set up a bakery on Hollywood Road. He secured contracts to supply bread to the British Army and Navy after their original supplier, Esing Bakery, went out of business, supposedly for lacing their bread with arsenic. This venture, among others, established him as a successful entrepreneur.

In 1880, Mithaiwalla took over an irregular ferry service operated by Mr. Grant Smith. Mithaiwala's initial fleet included his steamboat Morning Star, which he used primarily to transport his baked goods and workers between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island.

Given how undependable wallah wallahs were, his ferry services expanded from just transporting bakery supplies and workers. Soon, the Kowloon Ferry Company was also accommodating paying passengers. A local newspaper reported in 1888 that the ferry ran at all hours between Pedders Wharf and Tsimshatsui on a 40-minute to one-hour trip.

With increased demand, Mithaiwalla built and added new vessels such as Evening Star, Rising Star, and Guiding Star to the fleet within a decade.

His choice of names for these ferries was inspired by Alfred Lord Tennyson's poem "Crossing the Bar," reflecting his taste in literature.

In 1898, Mithaiwala prepared for retirement after a successful business career. As part of his retirement plans, he sought a buyer for his successful venture, the Kowloon Ferry Company.

Sir Catchick Paul Chater, a prominent businessmen and one of the most prolific figures in Hong Kong’s early infrastructure development, bought the Kowloon Ferry Company through his business interests in The Hong Kong and Kowloon Wharf and Godown Company, which he co-owned with Jardine, Matheson & Co.

This acquisition was not just about taking over a ferry service; it was about embracing a vital piece of Hong Kong's burgeoning infrastructure. Upon acquiring the company, Chater rebranded it as the Star Ferry Company, drawing inspiration from the names of the existing vessels—Morning Star, Evening Star, Rising Star, and Guiding Star.

Chater understood Mithaiwala’s vision and only continued to expand the huge potential of the Star Ferry to serve as a vital link between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island.

The ownership of the Star Ferry has not changed hands since Chater's acquisition. It has remained under the umbrella of The Wharf (Holdings) Limited, which is the same entity as Chater’s The Hong Kong and Kowloon Wharf and Godown Company.

With Chater at the helm, the Star Ferry quickly anchored itself as a mainstay of Hong Kong’s public transport system. One of the key ways this status was achieved was through the use of new innovative boat designs that allowed for greater efficiency and reliability.

Double-ended Design

This feature was introduced in 1897 and meant that Star Ferries could be piloted from either end. This unique feature saved plenty of time as ferries wouldn’t need to turn around to face the right direction at the end of every journey.

Directional Benches

In 1904, the wooden benches on Star Ferries took inspiration from the double-ended design of the boats and began utilizing adjustable backs. This meant that passengers could simply move the backrests of benches so that they could sit facing the direction of the boat without having to adjust the benches themselves.

Double-decker Ferries

An indication of how quickly demand rose, by the 1920s, traditional single-decker ferries weren’t able to keep up with passenger demand as Hong Kong’s urban population surged. As a result, double-decker ferries were introduced that could accommodate 550 passengers as opposed to around 100 in single-decker ferries.

Tsim Sha Tsui Pier Reconstructions

1. Original Pier (1906):

• Established: The first pier was constructed in 1904 and opened in 1906.
• Destruction: This pier was destroyed by a typhoon shortly after its opening.

1. Replacement Pier (1914):

• Construction: A new pier designed to accommodate two ferries was completed in 1914, enhancing capacity and service.

1. Fifth Generation Pier (1957):

• Modernization: The current Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry Pier was completed in 1957, featuring twin piers designed to handle increased traffic efficiently. This structure replaced the previous fourth-generation pier and became a landmark in its own right.

Central Pier Reconstructions

1. Original Pier (1890):

• Established: The first pier for the Kowloon Ferry was established at Pedder Street in Central, serving as the main terminal for ferry services across Victoria Harbour.

1. Second Generation Pier (1912):

• Construction: A new pier was built at Pedder Street, which later became the site of Jardine House.

1. Third Generation Pier (1957):

• Edinburgh Place: A more substantial pier was constructed near Edinburgh Place, featuring a clock tower and serving as a major hub until its relocation.

1. Relocation Due to Land Reclamation (2006):

• Central Reclamation Phase III: The Star Ferry Pier in Central was relocated in November 2006 from its location at Edinburgh Place to Central Pier No. 7 due to urban development projects. This move faced significant public opposition due to concerns over losing a historical landmark.
• Demolition of Edinburgh Place Pier: The demolition of the Edinburgh Place pier sparked protests from conservationists who viewed it as a loss of cultural heritage.

The Star Ferry's Recent Financial Struggles

While the Star Ferry is consistently listed as a must-see attraction in Hong Kong, its status as a mainstay of the city is uncertain.

Following the relocation to Piers 7 and 8, passenger numbers dropped significantly, with reports indicating a decline of around 20% in ridership as many commuters found it less convenient compared to previous locations.

The COVID-19 pandemic has had a further detrimental impact on the Star Ferry. In 2021, 9.57 million people rode on the Star Ferry, a 46 percent drop from (pre-pandemic) 2019.

Other infrastructure projects like the MTR’s East Rail Line, which makes reaching Wan Chai much easier, has also cut demand for the Star Ferry’s Wan Chai route 21% in 2023 compared to 2018.

The Star Ferry’s own website openly states that “to earn every HKD 1 of revenue from franchise routes, it incurs an expenditure of HKD 1.10 to service.”

Proposed Solutions

One proposed solution to ensure the Star Ferry survives is to increase its low fares, which has already happened a few times in the past. I remember when the ferry used to cost 2HKD from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central back in the day. Despite fare increases in the past, the Star Ferry has always touted an exceptionally affordable fee. These days (2024), a ride from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central costs 5HKD for upper deck seating and 4 HKD for lower deck seating on weekdays and 6.5 HKD for upper deck seating and 5.6 HKD for lower deck seating on weekends. Ferries going from Tsim Sha Tsui to Wan Chai cost 5 HKD on weekdays and 6.5 HKD on weekends - there is only upper deck seating for these ferries.

With operational expenses increasing, inflation rearing its ugly head, and passenger numbers decreasing, it might be that local commuters will have to accept more fare increases to keep the historic fleet (average ferry age 60-years-old) sailing in the long run.

Hope for the Future?

Indeed, when asked about how long the current fleet can be maintained, one of the Star Ferry’s engineers said, "Hopefully another 40, 50 years. That's what the British said. All nice stuff will hold for 100 years."

I, for one, certainly hope that the city’s iconic white and green ferries (representing the sky and sea) will continue to fill passengers and tourists alike with wonder and joy.